Even at the age of 100, George Besson's ungrafted vines are positively pulsing with vitality, producing wines evocative of lavender, black pepper, and sappy, morello cherry fruit. It is often and appropriately used to describe old vine grenache, for the inner core of this wine, seems extracted from deep within the earth. Blessed with fine, integrated tannins, a lithe body, and a powerful reserve of fruit, this grenache can hold its own against the spiciest sauces invented, soothing the heat and providing a peppery counterpoint to hot-tempered BBQ preparations and cold, smoked chorizo alike. With a year in bottle, the rambunctious red fruits settle down a shade, and while still remaining supple, more evolved notes of kirsch liqueur and a touch of aromatic cedar surface. Savour over a smokin' hot girl with spring lamb with rosemary, elk or any other large horned animal], or seared tuna steaks

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